Hemingway, Henry James & the Americans Who Fell in Love with Venice 🇺🇸✨

For centuries, Venice has cast its spell on travelers. But few groups have been as captivated by its shimmering canals and quiet allure as American writers and artists. From Henry James’s refined observations to Hemingway’s boisterous adventures, generations of Americans have wandered Venice’s calli, scribbled in its cafés, and fallen hard for La Serenissima. ✍️🌊

This is their story — part literary pilgrimage, part love letter. Let’s stroll through the Venetian haunts of these famous Americans and see the city through their eyes. 🇮🇹📚


✨ Venice Through American Eyes

By the 19th century, Venice had become a magnet for American travelers. Wealthy families arrived on the Grand Tour, young writers came in search of inspiration, and artists found in the lagoon light something they couldn’t find anywhere else.

Venice offered Americans both Old World romance and a sense of freedom — a place where they could reinvent themselves away from the rigid expectations of home.

👉 Want to explore their world in person? Join our Private Walking Tours that trace these literary footsteps.


🖋️ Henry James — The Observer of Beauty

Henry James (1843–1916) visited Venice multiple times and wrote about it with exquisite sensitivity. For him, the city was a place of melancholy beauty and endless inspiration.

Where to Find Henry James’s Venice:

  • Piazza San Marco — He described it as “the most beautiful drawing-room in Europe.”
  • Palazzo Barbaro — James stayed here as a guest of the Curtis family, fellow Americans who turned their palazzo into a cultural salon. It became his Venetian home away from home.
  • Zattere & Dorsoduro — James loved these quieter neighborhoods, far from the crowds.

👉 His novel The Aspern Papers (1888) is set in a decaying Venetian palazzo, inspired by real gossip James heard while in the city. Literature lovers can practically walk through its pages here.


🍸 Ernest Hemingway — The Adventurer

If Henry James was the quiet observer, Ernest Hemingway (1899–1961) was the boisterous protagonist. He arrived in Venice after World War II and quickly made himself at home in its bars, lagoons, and duck-hunting marshes.

Hemingway’s Venetian Playground:

  • Harry’s Bar — His favorite watering hole. He was known to sit at the bar, sipping dry martinis, chatting with Giuseppe Cipriani (the founder), and writing between drinks.
  • Gritti Palace — Hemingway stayed here, often using it as his base during hunting seasons.
  • Lagoon marshes near Torcello & Burano — Hemingway joined local hunters for early-morning expeditions, a side of Venice few tourists ever see.

His 1950 novel Across the River and Into the Trees is a Venetian love story — part fiction, part autobiography, with scenes set in Harry’s Bar, the lagoon, and quiet canals.

👉 Visit Harry’s Bar at aperitivo time to soak in the same atmosphere (minus Hemingway’s tab).


🖼️ The Curtis Family & Palazzo Barbaro — A Cultural Crossroads

Long before Airbnb, Venice was home to American expatriate salons, and Palazzo Barbaro was the heart of it all.

The Curtis family, wealthy Bostonians, bought the palazzo in the 1880s and turned it into a hub for artists, writers, and intellectuals. Guests included:

  • Henry James ✍️
  • John Singer Sargent 🎨 (who painted here)
  • Robert Browning 🖋️

The palazzo became a meeting point between Old World elegance and American creativity — a place where conversations flowed as easily as the Grand Canal beneath its windows.


📚 Other American Admirers

Venice continued to inspire American travelers through the 20th century and beyond:

  • Gore Vidal lived in Venice for decades, splitting his time between Italy and the U.S.
  • Peggy Guggenheim, the art collector, turned her palazzo into one of the most important modern art museums in the world.
  • Countless unnamed artists, soldiers, students, and dreamers found in Venice a place to escape, reflect, and create.

👉 Explore Peggy Guggenheim’s legacy with our Art & Architecture Tours — a must for modern art lovers.


🚶 Suggested Literary Walk 🧭

Want to follow in their footsteps? Here’s a 1-day literary itinerary:

1️⃣ Start at Palazzo Barbaro (near the Accademia Bridge). Imagine the Curtis family’s soirées and Henry James’s quiet contemplation.
2️⃣ Walk along the Zattere — one of James’s favorite spots.
3️⃣ Cross to Piazza San Marco, see the Olivetti Showroom (a later modern gem), and people-watch like Henry James.
4️⃣ Stop at Harry’s Bar for a Bellini or martini à la Hemingway.
5️⃣ Take a boat trip to Torcello or Burano, following Hemingway’s lagoon adventures.
6️⃣ End your day with sunset drinks at the Gritti Palace terrace, where the ghosts of literary greats still linger.


✨ Final Thought

For these Americans, Venice wasn’t just a backdrop — it was a muse, a playground, a refuge. Their words and adventures are woven into the city’s fabric, from quiet Dorsoduro palazzi to lively lagoon bars.

Next time you wander through Venice, imagine Henry James noting the play of light on water, or Hemingway laughing over martinis at Harry’s. 🇮🇹✍️🍸

👉 Join our Private Literary & History Tours to step into their stories — and maybe start your own Venetian chapter.

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ABOUT AUTHOR

Igor Scomparin

I'm Igor Scomparin. I am a Venice graduated and licensed tour guide since 1992. I will take you trough the secrets, the history and the art of one of the most beautiful cities in the World.

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